On October 1, 2025, Paris hosted an exceptional Acne Studios show during Fashion Week. Staged inside the historic Gothic Collège des Bernardins in the 5th arrondissement, the space was transformed into a lavish 1970s-inspired salon.
American artist Pacifico Silano hung mirrored aluminum works along the church’s stone arches, combining archival images of LGBTQ communities with new portraits, focusing on intimate yet non-explicit details. The resulting panorama formed a sensual backdrop that complemented the show’s androgynous casual vibe.
Swedish designer Jonny Johansson leaned heavily on androgyny for the collection. Acne Studios presented slim-cut pieces alongside oversized silhouettes, crafted in materials ranging from leather to striped fabrics. Dark shades of black dominated, with accents of olive green and earthy browns.
Leather jackets were coated with varnish resembling torn newspaper, while jeans appeared faded and distressed. Wool coats combined rough textures with intricate raised embroidery. Striped polo shirts were cut slim at the waist, giving a sporty elegance.
Shirts were adorned with lace and sheer fabrics to play on contrasts between rigidity and softness. A short poncho dress with layers of light silk floated like a cape. Accessories included cowhide shoes paired with classic aviator sunglasses.
The house highlighted its artisanal mastery with leather treated to mimic natural freezing effects. Glossy PVC and sculptural chrome structures gave garments a metallic feel, while digital printing techniques fused seamlessly with innovative materials.
The soundtrack featured music curated by Robyn and Yung Lean, mixed with reworked compositions by Max Richter. The electronic rhythms resonated with the architecture of the Collège, heightening the contemporary fashion panorama.
Johansson distanced himself from notions of perfect masculinity. Instead, the collection featured sweatshirts stained in faded hues and trousers splattered with paint. The designer proposed a concept of “imperfect perfection,” where allure lies in deliberate flaws.
The brand also revived its iconic five-pocket Camero bag in bright orange and glossy red. The Dame bag was embellished with metallic pin details echoing coat fabrics. Open leather sandals with oversized buckles completed the accessories.
Accessories drew from 1970s collegiate style — knit skullcaps, thin-wire round glasses, and bold metal jewelry giving a revolutionary edge. Johansson described them as “beyond time.”
This collection marked a new chapter for Acne Studios in its 30th year, celebrating collaborations across art, music and performance. Johansson offered advice to young designers: “Creative control of your vision is the secret to success.”
The show struck a balance between modernity and heritage, with bold yet authentic Acne Studios signatures. It showcased the house’s ability to fuse traditional craftsmanship with advanced digital techniques. As the brand enters its third decade, Acne Studios proves it can reinvent itself again and again.
